Riding the Thai big dipper
/One of my favourite coastal rides, and possibly the best in Southeast Asia
Surprisingly few people seem to be aware of the delights of Thailand’s south eastern coastal districts of Khanom and Sichon, which make them a great oasis for those in search of something a little more off-beat than the developed resorts of the south.
This area is also superb for laid back cycling, with miles of quiet and rolling country roads and dirt trails to mesh together into traffic light day rides or short tours
Thanks to the opening of a new coastal road between Khanom and the even sleepier town of Sichon (further south) the region now also has one of the best coastal bike rides in Southeast Asia.
The direct road distance between Khanom Beach and Sichon town is only 25-km; although for cyclists on a day ride I would recommend cutting out the last 8-10km southbound into Sichon, as traffic does tend to build up, The highlight of this coast road is definitely the new 15-km section from Khanom Beach to the road-head with the 401, which is just before the right turn to Khao Phlai Dam National Park.
From Khanom Beach it’s a flat and straight start along the quiet 4014 road (which soon becomes the 4232). This road runs from end to end of the long and often deserted Khanom Beach.
At the southern end you bare left (still the 4232) and the road starts to gently climb up and then to dip down as you pass through the strung out Nai Plao Bay area.
Leaving the last of the small resorts behind you reach the new section of road. It’s here that the “real ride”, and the climbing start. There are no more than a few meters of flat road ahead for the rest of the ride. Like a newly tarred roller coaster the road rolls out before you; dipping and diving through a seemingly never ending series of short but steep climbs.
To your right is a steep mountainside, which is covered in towering mixed trees and bushes. On your left are yet more of these tall tropical trees lining the road, casually parting every few meters or so to allow you to grasp glimpses of the sea lashing the rocky shores bellow.
The road winds its way up through this greenery and then dips down past the turning to Ao Tong Yee Tee beach (which has a small local restaurant). Here the road surface turns to concrete and the views to the left open up some more as you climb higher and into the Mu Koh Thale Tai National Park. Glance back and you will see the Ao Tong Yee beech bellow you.
After cresting this climb the road descends back down towards the sea. The next stretch is far more open and windswept. There are great views over the rocky shores bellow, and there are often small fishing boats working here.
There’s a gentle climb back up from here and then a final descent down through the trees to the road ending T-junction. Turn left and you come to a small bay with a few local restaurants. Turn right and you reach another T-junction. Keep left and continue for a kilometre or so to the Moon Coffee shop (15-km from the start), which has excellent views and great coffee and roti.
