Nice & Ezey

From long ago, when I took a ride or 2 with Stephen Roche around the Cote d’Azure, from a time before bike riders earned big bucks and all lived in Monaco,

Dodging hire cars and jumping traffic lights I followed Stephen at great knots along the Promenade des Anglais, one of the most famous coastal stretches in the world, and as unashamedly as chic as its reputation. We were on our warm up section before hitting the hills, something that this guy has a distinct passion for – as most of the worlds top pro riders have found to their peril at some time or another. 

Thankfully the days of La Plagne wipe outs and Vissentini bashing in the Giro are long gone for Stephen, though he still manages to spin those pedals with that unmistakable flare and fluidity that I just knew were going to cut it some when we turned up hill. It was already becoming clear that a bad day was not a day to pick to ride out with one of cyclings all time greats. Even so I’d now done it, and so consoled myself that he’d kicked bigger arse than mine in the past, and at least it was sunny, so why complain?

We hadn’t even been out for ten minutes and we’d already passed a speeding green and purple blur of Telekom and Credit Agricole jerseys, thankfully heading in the opposite direction. Next thing a car pulls alongside and the window rolls down; “Allez Monsieur Roche, allez…” Huh, what about poor old Monsieur Thomas I thought?

Before too long we swing away from the chic and spangly delights of Nice and turned inland. “ Thought we’d get a bit of a flat ride in before we go up hill “ grinned Stephen. After a spell of valley spinning we took to hills, and headed towards the Provenceal town of Carros. Wow! Suddenly all that hustle and bustle was way behind us. Just minutes later and we were in the Provence made famous by generations of artists and lyricists. Wooded hillsides, spring blossoms and winding climbing roads all the way. Bellow us lay Nice, all strewn out before us, dazed and basking in the glory of the mid day sun.

It was almost enough to take the sting out of the climb, but only almost. As I clung to Msr Roches wheel he danced on the pedals in a style embroidered in legend, that being his own. I felt sudden twinges of sympathy to all those over the years who’d grimaced at that self same disappearing site that seemed so at ease with the hill. He clearly sill loves to ride his bike, and hard too.

The pair of us were lapping up the opportunity to leave it all behind for a while, and to reminisce over past exploits. These here hills have many tales of cycling fable hidden within them, and Stephen knows most of them. Every twist or turn lead us to a different chapter in the tale; the time Critirium International came through here, the hotel where he and Kelly spent two months living. I was fortunate to be getting the insiders take on this very special part of the world. But lunch was beckoning, so we decided to call off the dogs and leave the Col de Vence for a bigger day, after all we still had to face the Eze the following day. 

Monte Carlo or bust

Another day another col, life’s tough at times. Today was the long awaited day we would go to the Col d’Eze. The fast moving traffic dodging pose which is the ride along the Promenade des Anglais is a great way to get you hot and pumped before hitting the climb. Before you know it a twist and shout between a garage and a traffic light and the road jacks upwards and you’re on the Col d’Eze. As the gradient ground in we ploughed onwards and upwards. Behind us the rooftops of Nice gradually shrunk then disappeared. 

As the altitude crept up on us so the low-lying mist descended. It was hard to comprehend that at around a measly 700 meters tall and straight out of Nice that the Eze was a true mountain, and one with all of the atmospherics and sufferance to match. This is a hill that has honed the tour winning preparations for Lance Armstrong, and it’s certainly nothing to be sniffed at. Over the mist shrouded summit we cruised on towards La Turbie, where even Lance chooses to stop for coffee when he rides the Eze. 

This was the Grande Corniche, one of three stunning roads, which run between Nice and Monte Carlo. It‘s the high and twisty route, the one with some of the most dramatic vistas in the region. It is also the road which caused Princess Grace of Monaco (Grace Kelly) to crash to her death some years ago. Bellow us lie the Moyen Corniche, a craggy main road that traverses the hillside, and lower still the Basse Corniche, or coastal road.

For us it was next stop Monte Carlo. I’d never been here before, so this was going to be one of those special moments!  Twisting and dropping at great speed we cruise into the famous principality. I just had to take coffee in Monte Carlo, and where better that the Café de Paris, right outside the famous casino, and the ultimate place to take café in this playground of the rich. 

All sweaty and decked out in Lycra I sat there with a grin a mile wide, thinking how damn lucky I was! And I still had a cruise along the Basse Corniche coast road to go. Rest assured this certainly would not be the last time I prop my bike against the lamppost in front of the Monte Carlo Casino!

Steve’s hill report

You really don’t expect to find a serious mountain just out of the French Rivieras capital. Yet believe it or not the Col d’Eze is one serious mountain climb, one which almost always determines the overall classification of the Paris – Nice. After duelling with traffic along the Promenade des Anglais the Eze rears up like a venomous snake from a rather unassuming back street in old Nice. 

A long and openly steep section of road climbs straight up ahead of you, with a crumpling steepness that is kinda soul destroying to start with, and something of a system shocker. If you’re not warmed up it’ll have you grunting and crunching down for your lowest gears. Depending on your fitness levels you’ll be dangling in-between 39 x 19 and 25, though the pro’s use around a 44 x 18 bottom when they time trial up here.

The gradients is pretty constant for the first few kilometres, unfortunately that means steep. After a slight mid climb ease up the climbing starts in earnest again. Now you really know you’ve gone out to play with a serious mountain. The second half is a wild and rugged affair, and a million miles removed from the sun blessed lower slopes. Swirling clouds and a chilling wind take you panting over the summit.

The tale of Roche and the col

Former Tour de France, Giro d’Italia and World Championships winner Stephen Roche is certainly no stranger to the slopes of the Col d’Eze. Way back in 1981 as a 19 year old rookie pro he took his first ever pro victory here when he won the Paris – Nice with a crushing final time trail win on the Col d’Eze. Although that was to be his only overall victory in the race he went on to take another 3 Col d’Eze time trail stage wins in the race to the sun. His compatriot and countryman Sean Kelly won six times on the Eze, almost claim for it to be shipped out to Dublin...

The Nice boys

Nice is something of a hotbed for pro bike riders. The areas accessibility, climate and superb road network have long been a big draw to cyclings elite. Most famous of all is Lance Armstrong, who has since left town. Other pro’s living between Nice and Monte Carlo include Kevin Livingston, Alexandre Vinokourov, Axel Merckx, Tony Rominger, Tyler Hamilton, Andrei Kivilev, and a whole load more. The general meeting strip for the local pros is around the airport/south end of the Promenade des Anglais. Hang around there mid morning and you’re quite likely to see a bunch of them heading for the hills, if you’re feeling brave you could always give chase.